14 Comments

I think that's the biggest thing for those nervous about nudity. Nobody is paying attention to them. Everyone is naked so no one is notable.

Expand full comment
author

Yes! I think nudity in a non-sexual place like the onsen is very liberating.

Expand full comment

Remind me to tell you the story of my first visit to an onsen back in 1989 or 1990. The young Japanese man who was showing me around pressed his advantage once we were submerged in a distant pool.

Expand full comment
author

I very much want to hear or read such story! 😦

Expand full comment

I know the onsen you visited in Chichibu since I live just down the Seibu Line in Hanno. Those reclining massage chairs you saw double as beds at the weekend for people who miss the last train. But, like Jack Krown my first exposure (pun intended) was at a local sento to the school I worked in. The bathroom in my teachers’ accommodation was too primitive and I needed a place to relax without the danger of anyone speaking to me. It all seemed very natural and healthy to me.

Expand full comment
author

Oh so cool that you recognizes the place! And it didn't occur to me that people would spend the whole night at that onsen... I thought they would close it up at a certain time. 😦

In the school sento, people didn't talk? Although, now that I am thinking about it, me and my friend were likely the only ones talking in the onsen area, like good foreigners. 😅

Expand full comment

People can only stay weekends for some reason.

Expand full comment
author

How interesting! I wonder when and how someone one day thought "we should be open overnight, but only on weekends". 😛

Expand full comment

In the countryside many tourist orientated businesses only open weekends and national holidays. A lot are closed Monday to Friday and the owners have regular jobs. Of course, a Seibu owned and run facility that they built at their station isn’t going to close weekdays, not least because Seibu sell Chichibu as a tourist destination incessantly. But, it makes sense for facilities to only offer full services on weekends.

Expand full comment
author

Oh, I see what you mean! And indeed, the amount of ads I saw about Chichibu throughout the way made me wonder a lot about how intensely Japan relies on tourism to bring people and attention to places outside the major cities.

Expand full comment

Two hours? Even one I dont think I can do.

I was thrown into the deep end in Japan, with my only daily bathing option being the public bath. So I had no time to really think about it. I do remember a guy explaining that bathing in Japan is unsexual—it’s westerners who sexualize the idea. I think in Japan it is social and leveling.

Expand full comment
author

I can imagine a version of me making friends at a public bath. It sits next to the version of me that goes to the same bar or café often enough to be recognized by the owners and other frequent goers. Which makes me think I should probably start having these favorite places hihi... 🤔

Do you still go to sento and onsen? Based on your first line, I don't think it is something you enjoyed much as an experience?

Expand full comment

I don’t go to sento anymore, most likely for the same reason so many Japanese do not. There are few and our homes now have baths.

I love onsen and always go when there is an opportunity. I became fan quickly!

Expand full comment
author

I went to a sento this week. Such a different vibe than an onsen, but still loved the experience. Which probably explains the whole thing: for me, as a foreigner (not only to the sento, but to the sento culture), it is an experience to be had, instead of an ordinary place.

Expand full comment